Now that you have the old output shaft removed from the transmission you will need to remove all of the gears from it and put them on your new Marlin Crawler supplied output shaft. Make sure you have a clean work area where you can remove the gears and keep them in order so you will remember their orientation and order for reassembly.

Take your time during this step as there is a “pin” and a “locking ball” which are very small and can become lost very easily along with the 17 roller bearings for the input shaft. I can not stress enough taking your time and treating the parts gently during the disassembly and reassembly process. The synchros are brass and the roller bearings can be easily damaged.

All of the names for parts I refer to in this section are taken from the FSM. All of these steps are found in the FSM and these directions are only intended as a supplement. If I did not think that Toyota USA would sue me in a minute for including copies of their pictures from the FSM I would. Either buy the FSM or get a friend to copy the transmission R&R section for you.

The FSM - Factory Publication no. 98154. To purchase one directly from Toyota Publications call 1-800-622-2033 7am - 5pm PST

The Thrust Washer, First Gear and the Synchronizer Ring No.1 Assembly will all slide off the back of the old output shaft. Be careful that you do not drop the roller bearing from inside the first gear! Do not loose the “pin” that is sitting in the output shaft! Note that the beveled part goes toward the output shaft and the flat side protrudes.

Before you remove the snap ring from the front of the output shaft you may want to perform the wear tests listed in the FSM. Remove the snap ring from the front of the output shaft and slide off the “Clutch Hub No.2 & Sleeve” When you do this do not be surprised when the three “Shifting Keys” fall out. Next to be slid off the shaft will be the “Sychronizer Ring” and “Third Gear”. Inside of “Third Gear” is the “Bushing”, underneath this bushing is the “Locking Ball” which sits in the output shaft. Do NOT loose this ball!  Last to be removed from the shaft is “Second Gear”.

I performed the FSM tests on all my synchros and failed them all. I was 7 thousands outside of the limit on every one.. Because my transmission shifted and ran fine before I started this project and I could only see visible wear on one of the synchros I did not replace any of them. I passed the “bushing and third gear test” well within the limit. These tests were all performed with feeler gauges and a digital Mitutoyo caliper with a +or- .001 accuracy so I trust the results. I believe my transmission to have 117,000 miles on it and I have friends with 300,000 and over on theirs so I am not really worried about failing these tests. If my transmission made noise, popped out of gear, or shifted poorly I would take the time to replace the worn parts.

In this first picture below you can see the 17 roller bearings that came from the input shaft, the “Pin”, “Locking Ball”, and the snap ring from the front of the output shaft.

In this picture you can see how I have laid out all of the transmission gear parts in order and all facing up so that it would be no mystery how they want back together on the output shaft. If you look closely you can see the roller bearings inside of the first and second gears.

Here is a shot of  the “Clutch Hub No.2 & Sleeve. You can see some wear on the “shifting keys” These keys must be reinstalled per the FSM while making sure the springs do not line up. I was really worried about this part when reassembling the transmission. I actually removed it once after I had it installed onto the new output shaft to make sure the springs did not move out of place. They did not. Until I figured out how this part worked, after I reassembled the transmission I was worried the shifting keys would fall back out. They did not. Bottom Line, follow the FSM instructions and don’t let this part get you paranoid like it did me. The keys look like they will pop out when you move the clutch hub back and forth between second and third gear but they won’t. Oh, and there is a synchro under the clutch hub you can’t see in the picture.

It is now time to install all your old gears onto your new output shaft. Follow the order in the FSM exactly and everything will be fine.  I first installed the ball and pin into the new output shaft with a little grease to hold them in. Next you will load all the parts onto the front of the output shaft and install the snap ring to hold them all on. You will then load the rear parts onto the output shaft in the correct order found in the FSM. I put a little grease onto the thrust washer to hold it onto the first gear. Put the countershaft into the bottom of the transmission case and then carefully place your new output shaft with gears into the case.

I received a visit about this time from “toyoda” who decided that after my issues with the old output shaft that he would oversee the project from here till completion. He had been watching the entire process from his normal perch on the windshield frame of my FJ40 but decided he wanted to get involved in the project. :)

Here he is perched on the case just before I put in the new output shaft assembly together. I cleaned all the parts in kerosene before assembly so they probably look cleaner than previous pictures.

Here is a picture of the new output shaft with all the gears installed next to my old cut one.

To reassemble the case you first will put the countershaft into the bottom of the case. Note that the inner race for the rear bearing is not on the countershaft in this picture. Lucky for me Toyoda brought it to my attention. I had to remove the countershaft, install the race then put it back. There is really no need to remove the inner race in the first place so don’t

Next you will put the output shaft assembly into the case and the first bearing that must be installed is the one that goes on the rear of the output shaft. Lucky for us our new output shaft is much shorter than stock. The way I got this bearing on was to first tap it into the case. I then inverted the transmission (front of case skyward, rear of case towards ground) and rested the bearing on a piece of 2x2 box steel. I then aligned the output shaft so it was straight and using a plastic two pound deadblow struck the end of the output shaft through the case to drive the shaft into the bearing. The 2x2 piece of steel allowed the tailshaft of the outputshaft to clear the bearing without hitting the garage floor.

You must make sure that the pin and thrust washer do not move during this process. I wished I had of owned a four or five pound deadblow for this. The bearing was a tight fit onto the new output shaft. If I had of had a heavier deadblow I doubt I would have had to invert the case. If you own a press it will be super easy to do this step. If you must pound the bearings in, make sure you are using a plastic deadblow. Do not use a metal faced hammer or sledge to do this as you can damage the bearings or add metal chips into your transmission.

Here is a shot of the piece of steel I used on the output shaft. Now just imagine the case inverted on the floor. The case cover is installed in this picture because I took the picture after the fact.

Next you must put the 17 roller bearings into the input shaft and install it in the front of the case. Grease them up good so that they will stick together well. They kind of act like a “keystone” once you get them all installed they will hold each other in. Tap in the input shaft through the front of the case It should slide right over the front of the output shaft without loosing any of your roller bearings. This step went very smoothly even though I thought it would be a hassle and the bearings would fall out..

Here is a picture of the roller bearings greased and ready to go.

Here is a picture of it installed in the case.

Next you will install the countershaft front and rear bearings. You will need to install these at the same time alternating driving them into the case and onto the countershaft. They both went on pretty easy for me. Once installed be sure to put on the snap rings. The FSM says you should start the rear one first into the case then alternate pounding them it. If you had a helper and you were both striking from opposite sides at the same time it would go very fast. I would tap one side and it would just drive the other side out. I ended up putting a boot against the opposite side when I struck the other side.

In this picture you can see that I have the inner race installed on the rear of the countershaft and that I have already installed the washer and snapring onto the upper bearing on the backside of the outputshaft.

Here is the front of the case with the bearing in. Note I have not removed the old gasket in this picture. I purchased a new one from my local Toyota dealer Part# (33132-36010). It is a good idea to also replace the seal in the cover that the input shaft rides on, I did not and have no leaks but am probably lucky. I installed the front cover after installing the new gasket. I could not find a torque spec for the front cover so I just snugged it down pretty good. I have a bad habit of shearing bolts so I am always looking for a torque spec for everything.

You are now ready to install the transmission cover onto the case. Before you do you should get some fresh 90wt gearoil and pour it over the gears and synchros so they are not dry at startup. You will fill fully fill the tranny after it is installed in the truck. This step is pretty easy. You need to put the transmission into neutral and line up the shift forks with their collars in the transmission. I was able to install and remove the cover three times and each time I was able to align the shift forks properly. Tap the cover onto the case and install the shifter loosely. Put the transmission into each gear and turn the input shaft with your hand. While turning watch the output shaft and you will see it change ratio depending on the gear you are in. Put the transmission into reverse and you will see the output shaft reverse direction.

Once you determine your transmission is shifting properly torque the cover bolts to the factory spec of (21.7 - 32.6 ft-lb.) per the FSM. I used a new cover gasket Toyota part# (33122-36011).

Here is a picture of the cover in place. Note the reverse switch partially screwed into the cover. You must remove the two posts visible in this picture and screw the switch all the way in.. When you attach the ToyBox adapter plate to the transmission it will be almost flush with the reverse switch. I am going to install a manual switch inside the cab to activate the reverse lights. When you remove the two posts you will most likely destroy the black plastic part of the switch, I did.

I was not kidding when I said it was a close fit.

Step 4: The transfer case section: The easy part!

Because you are changing your output shaft you must change a bearing, gear, spacer, and seal in your transfer case. Marlin Crawler includes all these parts with your ToyBox order. This is the easiest part of this whole project.

First remove the old gear and seal in this picture. To remove the gear just push it towards the inside of the case and catch it with your hand and remove it. Use a seal puller or your favorite tool to remove the seal but be careful not to knick the case while you do it. Remove the old gasket from the case also since Marlin Crawler includes a new one with the ToyBox. You can see in this picture mine was kinked and leaked a bit also.

Next you must remove the bearing from the rear of your transfercase. I literally just pushed mine with my bare hand towards the center of the case and caught it with my hand I stuck in through the access panel on the side. It was that easy. If yours is more of a press fit just tap it towards the inside of the case to remove with your deadblow.

Here you can see the bearing removed and the new seal driven into the case. Note that the flat side of the seal goes toward the inside of the transfercase. This is important as you want the seal to keep the transfercase from pumping gear oil out of the transfercase and overfilling your ToyBox and transmission and leading to a transfercase failure.

Tap the new seal into your transfercase in the proper orientation after you grease up the edge a little so it will install easier. Once you have the seal in apply grease to the new gear and the inner seal surface and install the new ToyBox gear. I told you this part was easy. We will not install the new bearing till after we mate our transfercase to the ToyBox. This step comes later.

Here is a picture of the old bearing and seal, and both the new and old gears from the transfer case. The toothbrush in the picture is my hightech parts cleaning brush. Note the spline difference between the old and new transfercase gears. The new spline matches the new output shaft of your ToyBox.

Click Here to Continue to Step 5: The ToyBox meets your Transmission and Transfercase!

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